The Babies - Berlin, Germany - Monarch - 6-7-13

The Berlin portion of this trip concluded Friday evening at der Monarch in Kreuzberg.  The second-floor bar and occasional live music venue on Skalitzerstr is a little tricky to locate.

In one of a few doofus moves I’ve made on this trip so far, I mistakenly walked into a venue down the block, handed the guy my ticket and hung out in the wrong place for a half hour.

When I noticed what appeared to be bongos on stage and a steady stream of dance hall and ska sounds coming from the DJ booth, I grew suspicious and a little panicky.  I came all the way out here in large part to see The Babies and I didn’t want to miss ’em.

I went back to the doorman and sought confirmation I was at der Monarch.

Negative.  I had mistakenly entered Festsaal where the night’s bands included Dreadnut Inc. and Ganjaman.

Since the doorman had already ripped the stub off my ticket, he sought the club’s manager’s advice to help get me out of this pickle.  .

I didn’t get the guy’s name, but he was nice enough to walk me down the street to der Monarch and explain to the people there that I had already had my ticket ripped at Festsaal.

Now in the right place, I ordered a Staropramen (3.7 euros) and breathed a sigh of relief.

The Babies were the only band on the card.  The cut-to-the-chase aspect of no opening act made the evening feel special.  The band ate a heavy meal in the neighborhood prior to hitting the stage.  The room was hot and smoky.  That didn’t seem to slow any of them down.  The performance was exceptional and energetic.  The crowd filled the venue and was totally into it.  Kevin Morby (above right) worked in a few danke schoens at the ends of tunes.  The stage barely had room for a quartet which limited Morby’s prowling and darting.  Both Cassie Ramone and Brian Schleyer (from the left- above) were positioned such that they could look out the window to see busy and freaky Skalitzerstr down below.  Both could be seen stealing glances as the U-Bahn trains racing in and out of Kottbusser Tor station across the street.  Drummer Justin Sullivan (holding the sticks) laid on extra oomph as Moonlight Mile climaxed.  The band added drama to Cassie’s “See the Country” with a thunderstorm of sound to conclude the tune.

What can you say?  It was a great show.

The band will put its rented tour van on a ferry boat Saturday to cross the Baltic Sea en route to Malmo.

One bit of band news:  Look for a Kevin Morby solo record (with production help from Babies friend Rob Barbato) out on Woodsist later this year.

Holocaust Memorial - Berlin, Germany 6-7-13
Earlier Friday, I tried to get around a bit to see some sights.  The Holocaust Memorial (pictured above) blew me away.  I don’t understand the controversy over its vagueness.  Its power is in its symbolism (coffins) and the prominent real estate it sits on.  I skipped Checkpoint Charlie but saw the Brandenburg Gate and the Reichstag.  The latter is fronted by a huge parcel of open parkland with full public access.

Reichstag - June 7, 2013

How bout’ that?  One of the world’s most powerful countries has the seat of its government next to a giant lawn used by people to picnic and play frisbee on.  As it should be.

I only scratched the surface of this city but I’d have to say I was most taken by the energy and spirit of Kruezberg neighborhood in the immediate vicinity of Kottbusser Tor.

My hotel in Berlin was four stars.  I stayed at the Scandic property near Potsdamer Platz.  I chose the place largely because I previously made the Stockholm arrangements off glowing touts of Scandic’s progressive approach to business.  I figured if Scandic was so popular in Sweden, they’d be good in Berlin.  Scandic has chain-like presence in Scandinavia and they have two hotels in Germany.  The one I stayed at has 561 rooms.  The rate was 116 Euros a night tax included.  They let me check in early.  The room was wonderful.  The hotel lobby is just steps from the Mendelssohn U-Bahn stop on the U2 line.

When I woke up Friday, I went down to the restaurant to check out the buffet line.  It was the most beautiful breakfast spread I’ve ever seen at a hotel restaurant.  Several varieties of pickled herring caught my eye immediately.  There was fruit, eggs, a cheese table and about 30 different types of breads and pastries.  The coffee was excellent.  I ate like a kaiser.  The flat 20 euro charge for the buffet was totally worth it given the quality and range of the offerings.

Berliners aren’t discreet about launching happy hour on their commutes home or on the way out to meet friends.  It’s not uncommon to see people carrying large bottles of beer in plain view.  Even at the airport early Saturday morning, I saw two older couples sip from bottles of Beck’s before joining the security line.  It’s hard to imagine this taking place in the United States given our reliance on the automobile.  But in Berlin, it seems like most everybody rides bikes or uses perhaps the finest public transit system in the world.

Bikes everywhere in Berlin

Those who root for bike share’s success in New York can look to Berlin as a model for a city’s successful harmony between bikes, trains, buses and cars.  Dedicated bike lanes respected as such are a nice starting point.  But to mesh heavily-used bike ways with automobile traffic, the bicyclist must be savvy in adhering to sometimes complex requirements at traffic lights and pedestrian walkways.  Berlin bike riders seem to have it down to a science.  I was in awe.  Bikes everywhere.

Berlin, Germany 6-6-13

Greetings from Deutschland.

After collecting decent-sized payoffs on successful Derby and Preakness win wagers, I decided to use the cash on travel rather than give it all back to the track on Belmont Day.

I’m doing 48 hours in Berlin and 72 hours in Stockholm.

I flew in Wednesday night out of Newark on a 757-200.  The seven and a half hour non-stop to Berlin’s Tegel Airport was smooth.  A teenage girl approached me just before the cabin door closed in Newark and asked if I would mind trading my exit row aisle seat in “economy plus” for her regular coach aisle seat several rows back so she could sit next to her pal.  I quickly weighed the variables and declined the offer.

The long trip passed quickly with the help of a stack of daily newspapers and some catch-up on a month’s worth of New Yorker magazines.  I really enjoyed the Kim Gordon piece.  About 50 movies were loaded on the plane’s entertainment system which is controlled individually through touch screens on the backs of seats.

None of the offerings interested me really but I did watch Not Fade Away.  It was kinda bad although I stuck with it and thought the ending was original and out there.

The woman seated in front of me puffed on an electric cigarette at regular intervals throughout the flight.  A wisp of odor-less smoke rose above her as she exhaled but it dissipated much quicker than the real stuff.  I’m not sure if this newfangled nicotine fix is within the rules of commercial aviation but nobody seemed to care.  The same woman (she spoke German and was traveling with her backwards-hat-wearing boyfriend) made several hearty attempts to recline her seat back but couldn’t make it move.  Since the row behind her is an exit row, the chairs are locked upright.  She didn’t realize this and persisted in efforts to muscle the seat back before a flight attendant finally informed her that her attempts were futile.

Arrival at Tegel was easy.  The passport stamper didn’t quiz me and it took a total of ten minutes to clear customs and pick up my one piece of checked luggage.

Tegel dates to 1960.  It’s due to be replaced in the next year or so by a new facility called Brandenburg south of city center.  Tegel’s hexagon layout reminds me of how Chicago-Midway used to look before it was enlarged and renovated.  Among the carriers doing business at Tegel is Iran Air.

I arrived Tegel at about 8 AM Thursday.  To avoid entering the scrum of Berlin’s public transit system during the morning rush hour, I killed a couple hours at the airport taking in the scene.  I had a “milchkaffee” (4.1 euros) at the Wiesn stand across from the Aegean ticket counter and studied the public transit map handed to me at the visitor information desk.

The bus/train combo to my hotel near Potsdamer Platz was easy.  I bought a one-day unlimited use transit ticket for 6.5 euros and made multiple subway trips later in the day.

My sleep is out of whack and I’m gonna cut this short right now to crash in synch with the local time but I’m blown away by the city so far.  I had a few cold ones at this giant outdoor beer garden near the Eberswalder U-Bahn.  I covered a lot of territory in Kreuzberg late this afternoon and I have a full day tomorrow to hit some of the must-see sights.

The Babies do a show here tomorrow night.  The weather is perfect after drenching rains in these parts the last few weeks.  Public transit is incredible.  I don’t have a Belmont pick and I’m not even sure I’ll see it.  But if I had to make a pick, I’d take the longest three Pletcher trainees and play a $10 exacta box.  More in the next day or two.